Water Heater Replacement

Replacement usually makes sense when the tank is 8–12+ years old, the steel body is leaking or heavily rusted, recovery time stays slow even after flushing, the pilot or elements fail repeatedly, or multiple high‑cost components (gas valve, thermostat, dip tube, anode) are failing in succession. A ruptured tank or persistent corrosion cannot be “repaired” safely.

Key cost drivers include: fuel type (gas vs electric), capacity (gallon size), efficiency rating (standard vs high‑efficiency or low‑NOx), venting modifications, gas line or electrical upgrades, expansion tank addition, drain pan and drain line, haul‑away/disposal, permit/inspection fees, and optional recirculation or water treatment accessories. An upfront written estimate should itemize each line so you can compare value—not just headline price.

A straight like‑for‑like swap (same fuel, similar vent path, no major code corrections) often completes in 2–4 hours. Add time if: venting needs re‑routing, seismic strapping is missing, an expansion tank is required, there’s tight access, or you upgrade to a different technology (e.g., to a larger capacity or to a tankless quoted separately). You’ll usually have hot water restored the same day.

Yes—local code commonly requires proper seismic strapping, a temperature & pressure relief valve with correctly routed discharge, adequate combustion air (gas), approved venting, drip leg (sediment trap) on gas supply, and (in many cases) an expansion tank if thermal expansion could elevate system pressure. A licensed installer pulls/handles the permit and schedules inspections where required.

Sizing isn’t guesswork. We look at household occupancy, simultaneous peak demand (morning showers + laundry/dish cycle), recovery expectations, and whether you’ve been running out. Sometimes downsizing is efficient if you consistently under‑use capacity; other times upsizing prevents chronic shortages. Proper sizing balances first‑hour rating (for tanks) with realistic usage patterns.

The old heater is drained, safely disconnected, removed, and hauled away for proper recycling or disposal. Any residual water is contained, and the area is cleared of debris. If there was moisture damage (from slow leaks), you’ll be advised so you can address flooring or platform concerns before future issues develop.

Yes. Options include choosing a higher efficiency or low‑NOx model, adding a properly sized expansion tank to reduce stress, installing a quality insulated drain pan and heat traps (if not built in), and setting a safe 120°F thermostat baseline. In hard water areas like Chino, planning annual or semi‑annual flushing and periodic anode inspection preserves efficiency gains over the life of the new unit.